Monday, January 21, 2008

135LC VS others

125Z-RM6300++ 135LC(normal, without clutch)-RM5600++
125ZR-6900++ 135LC Extreme Spirit(with clutch)-RM6200++

1)top speed
125Z->165km/h(tunduk ~180km/h) || 135LC->150km/h(tunduk ~160km/h)
2)FC
125Z->35-38km/l || 135LC->50-60km/l
3)handling and braking
125Z better than 135LC
4)gegaran
125z less than 135LC because 125z use 2-stroke engine
5)price
125z-RM6800 || 135LC-RM6000
bahagian depan 135LC nampak cam tue sebab mudguard dia..mudguard macam
125z akan mengganggu aliran angin ke radiator..

OPINION

  1. Better buy 135lc bro.Save petrol,suitable for long distance,low cost maintainance.The 4 valve engine give ur engine more torque at low rpm. That's why 135lc save fuel comsumption.
  2. I'M A 135LC OWNER!. U WON'T REGRET IT BRO. SEXY HEADLAMPS (SUPERBIKE
    LOOK). REAR MONO SUSPENSION PERFORMS BETTER THAN 125Z. STANDING CYLINDER
    GIVES MUCH MORE STRONGER ENGINE (BUT NEED LONGER ENGINE WARM-UP IN THE
    MORNING). COOLS UP RAPIDLY. 'REMPIT-ED' WITH SOME 125s OVER AT BANGSAR FEW
    WEEKS AGO, 125s TORQUE MUCH MORE POWERFULL BUT AFTER TOP SPEED AROUND 170,
    MY LC FED THEM DUST AS THE OWNER AFRAID ON OVERHEATING. WE RACED MORE THAN
    100KM BEFORE 125s THREW THE TOWEL. MINE KEEP ON GOING.
  3. Go for 135LC lar definitely.
    You only need to consider one point - which engine will last longer.

    Things like clutch and tacho are just nice to have lar but not important.
    125z works without the clutch also means it's a cheating wan. As for
    tacho, no need lar - learn to listen to your engine. Also, 135lc should have higher resale value also.
  4. With 125Z
    you have to put 2T...
    more expensive

    135
    dun have manual
    less power

    If me, the 135 would be a great compromise compared to the 125Z for a daily
    commuter bike.

    Too dab suzuki FX125 not sold anymore. Got manual 5 speed box and powerfull
    too.
  5. I have owned an LC135 since 20 April (first batch, from Thailand). In
    Ipoh you can get it in 3 days. So far so good, no problem at all. Mine
    green colour, full accessories (must add another RM300).
    Compare to my friend's 125Z, FC are good wether in long or short
    distance. Average speed 70-80km/h. Top speed until today 130km/h but dont
    want to push it further, still new maa... . Choosed it because of
    reliability issue for 2 stroke engine (FC, maintenance..bla..bla...).
    But it depends on what riding habit we have. Some people love speeding,
    than 125Z is better. For others like me who opt for FC and low
    maintenance, just go for LC135, you won't regret..
  6. There are pros and cons on both engine. Here are some.
    For 4 stroke:
    Pros
    1) Good FC, since the engine use only petrol and 4T oil (seldomly change)
    2) Cleaner engine (no visible smoke; unless engine faulty)
    3) Low noise (standard exhaust pipe only, no mods - from factory)
    4) Power when climbing steep hill
    5) Durable for long distance non stop (no engine jammed problem)

    Cons
    1) Vibration (especially for single piston like cubchai)
    2) Repairing cost (lots of mechanical stuff / moving parts, but it won't
    be a problem if you maintain your bikes well and according to service
    booklet)
    3) Less power when compared with 2 stroke engine (except hilly roads)

    For 2 stroke:
    Pros
    1) High end power compare to 4 stroke
    2) Simple engine components, even you can maintain it yourself (repairing
    cost low but... see the cons below)
    3) Very slight vibration compared with 4 strokes
    4) High speed compare with 4 stroke

    Cons
    1) FC not so good, also need 2T oil (more RM)
    2) Visible smoke, in long term (even if you maintain your bikes well)
    3) Always need to clean the engine parts (including exhaust pipe) to
    prevent carbon build up that causing power loss & high FC
    4) Must be very careful during full throttle or long distance, if the
    carburator fuel mixture (petrol + 2T) are not right, the engine will
    jammed)

    For 135LC, by adding RM300, you can get:
    1) Nice head cowling (like 125Z)
    2) Air intake housing
    3) Extra side cowling, your motorcycle looks more attractive
    4) 'V' shaped plastic(don't know what they call it) in front of your bike
  7. 4-stroke can save petrol & $$$.
    -For 2-stroke you need to check the 2T level regularly to make sure
    it hasn't dropped too low.
    -While pouring 2T you have to be careful not to spill it on the sides of the
    2T tank or kena your long-sleeve t-shirt.
    -I'm basically too lazy to do that...hahaha...that's why I'm a 4-stroke guy.
    The 135 is quite an incredible kap-chai, I saw one guy on the highway
    tah-pau basically everyone (trailers, cars & other kap-chais) on the fast
    lane.
    -The engine sounds good too, a kind of powerful whirring sound that is
    pleasing too hear.
  8. yamaha125ZR :kalau pakai jln jauh,boleh tahan jugak.tapi kalau pakai race lagi power oooooooo
    yamaha 135LC :jln jauh takda masalah sebab motonya macam kereta.kalau pakai race semput beb.....
  9. Soalan:
    SAYA menggunakan motosikal Yamaha 135 LC yang dibekalkan dengan klac tangan. Apakah perbezaan motosikal menggunakan klac tangan dengan model tidak menggunakannya?

    Jawapan:
    Sebenarnya kedua-dua model Yamaha 135LC ini menggunakan klac dan yang membezakannya ialah cara kawalan klac berkenaan digerakkan.

    Fungsi klac menghubungkan enjin dengan kotak gear. Model awal menggunakan klac automatik yang digerakkan daya emparan apabila putaran enjin meningkat dan daya ini menyebabkan plet klac terhubung dan seterusnya menggerakkan gear, sproket dan terus ke rantai serta tayar.

    Bagi model terkini yang menggunakan kawalan manual atau kawalan tangan dan kadangkala digelar klac mati (kerana enjin mati jika klac tersalah lepas), kawalan klac dihantar melalui tuil tangan yang menggerakkan rumah klac.

    Rumah ini mengandungi plet klac yang ditekan spring dan apabila ia ditarik, plet ini terpisah serta membebaskan pusingan enjin dari kotak gear.

    Dalam keadaan gear neutral, syaf terhubung dengan sistem klac bebas berpusing dengan tiada bebanan, jadi enjin tidak mati.

    Manakala apabila gear dimasukkan, syaf terhubung dengan gear dan sistem penghantaran akhir. Apabila klac ditarik, plet klac terpisah dan enjin berputar bebas, gear dimasukkan tidak akan terhubung sehingga klac dilepaskan dan plet klac bergesel dengan plet pengantar sedikit demi sedikit sehingga klac dilepaskan sepenuhnya.

    Ini yang menghasilkan kawalan kuasa enjin kepada penunggang. Klac manual ini memberikan lebih kawalan kepada penunggang dan selalunya lebih digemari mereka yang inginkan kawalan kuasa lebih baik berbanding klac auto.

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